Good morning. Here's what you need to know to start your day. I'm Gustavo Arellano, Metro columnist, writing from Orange County and snacking on leftovers from ...
An experiment in culinary nostalgia
Hundreds of Angelenos alternately mourned and feasted when the Original Pantry Cafe closed in March after 101 years. One of those sad eaters was Erika Armenta. After a final meal, the owner of East Los Tacos in East L.A. thought not just about the loss of the institution but also about the 20-some workers — many of whom had worked at the Pantry for decades.
"What can we do for them? What can we do for these people who are losing their jobs in a matter of few days?" Armenta told KNBC-TV in mid-April a few weeks after announcing that she had hired four Original Pantry workers to replicate some of the diner's greatest breakfast hits at her restaurant.
Nearly a month later, her experiment in culinary nostalgia and empathetic ownership continues in what Armenta has christened East Los Pantry.
She wasn't in when I visited last week for breakfast. But hustling in the kitchen were Fausto Perez and Vitalino Pablo. Perez, a native of the Mexican state of Puebla, poured perfect circles of pancake batter on the grill and flipped sunny-side eggs in a pan with the ease of a 24-year Pantry line cook veteran. Pablo, a Guatemalan immigrant who worked alongside Perez for 12 years, carefully plated dishes and called out orders to be made.
"Thank God I found a job here because I needed it," Perez, 58, said in Spanish.
The 47-year-old Pablo nodded. "My motive every day is to echarle ganas" — put in that work.
They apologized for not having much else to say — the breakfast rush was on.
Sitting at a table on his break was another former Pantry worker, Felix Agustin, the sixth hired so far by Armenta. It was his first week.
"This past weekend was really busy, which is good," the 56-year-old Oaxaca native said. Orders kept getting shouted behind us. The register line kept getting longer. "But not all of our compañeros are working, so I'm also sad."
The Original Pantry's owner, the Richard J. Riordan Administrative Trust, shuttered the place after a contract dispute with Unite Here Local 11, the union that represented the restaurant's workers. The former said the latter's demand for a contract that guaranteed that any potential new owner would honor it made any sale of the building and restaurant virtually impossible.
The move shocked workers. Many remembered the trust's namesake, the former L.A. mayor who bought the Original Pantry in 1981 "with union representation," noted Unite Here Local 11 spokesperson Maria Hernández.
She met me for breakfast and ordered French toast, perfectly lined up on a plate and dusted in powdered sugar like mini-San Gabriels after a snowstorm. Although the union technically no longer represents former Pantry workers, union leaders and members frequent East Los Pantry to support Perez, Pablo, Agustin and the others. They've also shown up to actions including a May Day pancake fundraiser for unemployed workers and a small protest on a recent weekend outside the Brentwood home of Riordan's widow, Elizabeth, during a party.
United Here Local 11 continues to negotiate with the Riordan trust over severance pay for the Pantry's laid-off staff and is urging them to sell the place to someone who'll reopen it and hire everyone back.
"The workers still have hope that they can work together again," Hernandez said. "They're like a family."
As an Orange County guy, I had no particular feelings over the closing of the Original Pantry other than it was a shame the workers lost their jobs. But my East Los Pantry breakfast — a massive pancake, a hill of garlic potatoes, chorizo and garlic toast — was what a breakfast should be. The flapjack was fluffy, the taters were crunchy and buttery, the chorizo had a spicy kick, and the pungent sourdough bread crunched. Perez, Pablo and Agustin are doing right by their old job.
East Los Pantry is open from 7 in the morning until 2 in the afternoon (East Los Tacos continues for the rest of the day into the night). Between them, La Azteca Tortilleria and La Carreta, the corner of Avenida Cesar E. Chavez and Ford Boulevard is as great a stretch of breakfast in L.A. as you'll find right now. Let your panzas grow!
Today's top stories
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- A painful truth, according to columnist Bill Plaschke: The Lakers must trade Austin Reaves.
- An executive order closed a tariff loophole that benefited Chinese fast-fashion online retailers, much to the dismay of columnist Robin Abcarian's niece.
- An AI Agatha Christie? The best-selling novelist of all time deserves better than that, argues columnist Mary McNamara.
- Burned lots in L.A. will sit empty for decades unless Congress tweaks the tax code, argue contributors Christopher Cox and Hank Adler.
This morning's must reads
(William Liang / For The Times)
How a Mojave Desert footrace became a showcase for L.A. County Sheriff's Department turmoil. The Baker to Vegas relay is a law enforcement tradition. This year it was a showcase for turmoil in the L.A. County Sheriff's Department.
Other must reads
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For your downtime
(Maggie Chiang / For The Times)
Going out
Staying in
A question for you: What's your favorite karaoke song?
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And finally ... your photo of the day
(Andre Herrero )
Today's great photo is from photographer Andre Herrero, taken for Image Magazine's photo essay: Dental offices don't need to be sterile holding pens. This Beverly Hills project is plush, pink and magical.
Have a great day, from the Essential California team
Gustavo Arellano, California columnist
Karim Doumar, head of newsletters
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